When Sue, from Nigel and Sue Adventures  suggested I come to explore Albania with her, I had no idea what it would be like and, because I quickly legged it across 6 countries to meet up with her, I had done absolutely no research to find out.  

When we met, we headed into Tiranë, the capital, and the fascinating history and culture of Albania started to reveal itself. I made a video about that trip.

Now we are off on a girls’ van life road trip through Albania!

An actual hidden gem, Albania remained sealed off from the world for most of my life.  It was the most isolated country in Europe until 1991.  Albania is now opening up to travellers. Did you know Albania it has its own stunning Riviera? Is it the new Croatia for tourism? Should you visit? We’re here to find out!

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Starting Point: Tirana & Villa Lufi
Our journey began in Kamez, a suburb of Tirana, Albania’s capital. We stayed at Villa Lufi, a fantastic spot with great facilities, an olive grove, and some friendly visiting chickens. With clean shower and toilet facilities, water hookups, grey water dumps, power and a very accomodating host, it’s an ideal stop for van lifers.  It’s only a 10-minute walk into downtown Kamez, where you can find supermarkets, restaurants, and easy public transport to Tiranë city center for just 40 Leke. It felt safe, even late at night, and was a great place to ease into our adventure.

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Market Adventures
In Kamez we found a lively market with a huge range of items in the many stores.  Markets are a great way to experience local culture and meet local people.  We chatted with shop owners and tested my very limited Albanian language and charades skills.  Many Albanians will say they only speak a little english but can often hold a basic conversation while my Albanian is limited to “faleminderit” – thank you.

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The Chaos & Charm of Durrës
Before heading to Vlorë, I made an unplanned stop in Durrës, one of Albania’s oldest cities. It was absolute chaos—and I loved it! Traffic rules? More like guidelines. Cars, pedestrians, and even people begging in the middle of the road created an unpredictable, high-energy vibe.

Durrës is home to some incredible ancient sites, including the largest Roman amphitheater in the Balkans, which held over 20,000 people and was used until it was damaged in an earthquate in the 4th century. The city also has a 6th-century Byzantine marketplace. Unfortunately, parking was a challenge, unless I did what the locals do. I didn’t, so I couldn’t explore them all as much as I’d hoped, but the experience was still thrilling.

Driving through Durrës was an adventure in itself. People park wherever they feel like it—sometimes in the middle of the road with their hazard lights on. Nobody honks angrily, though; everyone just maneuvers around the chaos. I may have run over a pothole and clipped a truck mirror, but hey, that’s all part of the adventure, right?

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First Taste of the Albanian Riviera: Vlorë
After navigating the wild streets of Durrës, I continued on south to meet Sue in Vlorë, the gateway to the Albanian Riviera. Fun fact: A Riviera is a coastal region with a subtropical climate and lush vegetation—basically, think of Australia’s Gold Coast, but with more history and charm.

Vlorë immediately felt more relaxed. Sitting by the waterfront, I enjoyed a delicious Italian pizza with sesame-seed crust and a cold German beer. Total cost? About 16 AUD—absolute perfection. After months of chilly weather, soaking up the warm sun with great food was pure bliss.

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Stocking Up for More Adventures
In Vlorë we parked up in a public car park behind restaurants, hotels and apartment blocks fronting the ocean.  So it was literally a minute walk for stunning views and amazing food.  

Conveniently there was a supermarket right next to the car park, making it super easy to stock up on essentials (by which I mean chocolate, chips, noodles, and beer—naturally, all the major food groups!).

This road trip has already been packed with so much fun, and we’re just getting started. There’s so much more to show you, so I’ve decided to break the videos it into a series. In the next instalment, Sue and I continue down the breathtaking Albanian coast, meet amazing people, and discover why this country is a must-visit for adventurous travelers.

So, if you’re thinking about visiting Albania—especially in the off-season—DO IT! And stay tuned for more van life road trip chaos and beauty. See you next week!